Two Week Patagonia Itinerary: Adventure in Chile and Argentina

Patagonia has a fantastic variety of wildlife, including the llama-like guanacos and the ostrich-like rheas that frequent the grasslands. Happily, I was able to see the wildlife I wanted to on this itinerary, except for the famously elusive puma.

My time in Patagonia left me feeling like I had only scratched the surface of the area. There’s something seriously peaceful about the vast distances between towns. The bus between El Chalten and El Calafate had me feeling like I was journeying through the background of an old Western movie.

This itinerary skips the overnight trekking and opts for day hikes instead. I planned this trip about 6 weeks in advance and found the most difficult part of planning this itinerary to be the logistics of getting around Patagonia. I have detailed sections on logistics to help your travel planning go faster.

How to Get Around Patagonia

How you get around Patagonia is going to greatly depend on your budget. The most expensive option will be to rent a car for this itinerary. You can either rent for portions of the itinerary, as I did for Chile, or for the entire itinerary. Take into account that the rental car must be returned to the country it was rented in. There is also an extra fee to take a vehicle across the border. I rented from Sixt Rental in Puerto Natales through DiscoverCars and was very happy with the service.

The more budget-friendly option is to use buses and tours to get around Patagonia. I used buses to get between cities in Patagonia. Booking directly on the company’s websites was difficult as it wasn’t always possible to use a Canadian credit card. I recommend BusBud for tickets. You can also check directly with Bus-Sur or Marga Taqsa. When you book, you will need the passport number for each passenger.

I rented a car to get around Puerto Natales, as it is quite far from Torres del Paine. It is also possible to make use of tours like this one to the Base of the Towers or this one that explores other viewpoints in the park. The shuttle bus from Puerto Natales may also be a good option.

In El Calafate, I booked a tour to see Perito Moreno Glacier. This did need to be booked at least a day in advance.

El Chalten is one of the most conveniently placed towns I have ever visited. I was able to walk to all of the trailheads from town.

Flights to Patagonia

Flight logistics can get a bit complicated but in general, flights from Santiago, Chile will fly to Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas in Chile. Puerto Natales is the better option as you will not need to deal with a bus from Punta Arenas. If you are flying from Buenos Aires, Argentina, then most flights will go to El Calafate, Argentina, which is the closest airport to El Chalten.

In the low season, you will likely need to fly round-trip to one of these airports or deal with a long, indirect flight. In high season (December to February), Sky Airlines has twice-weekly direct flights from El Calafate, Argentina to Santiago, Chile.

I flew from Santiago to Puerto Natales and then from El Calafate to Santiago. The flight from Santiago to Puerto Natales is the most scenic flight I’ve ever taken, so book a window seat on the left side of the plane.

When to Visit Patagonia

Patagonia is in the Southern Hemisphere so the seasons are opposite of what many people are used to. The best time to visit is November to March, which encompasses late spring to early autumn.

Summer (December-February) is an excellent time to visit, which is why it is peak season. You will have some rain, possibly high winds, and trails clear of snow.

Spring (September to November) is an option if you visit in late spring, November. Because this itinerary includes hikes at higher altitudes, early spring could still have heavy snow. I visited in mid to late November and lucked out with mostly great weather. However, earlier in the week that I visited trails in El Chalten required crampons and in Torres del Paine, there were deaths from a snowstorm on the O Circuit. Two weeks after I visited, there was snowfall on the Base Torres trail, even though it was clear when I visited. The weather in Patagonia can change rapidly and you have to be prepared for it.

Autumn (March to May) is a popular time to visit Patagonia to see the vibrant foliage. March is your best bet for good weather. Later on in the season, you will risk snowfall, especially at higher altitudes.

Using WindGuru for Weather

Because weather changes rapidly in Patagonia, I highly suggest learning how to read WindGuru weather forecasts before your vacation. Check forecasts the night before and the morning of your hike. Be flexible with your hiking plans. I have weather days built into this itinerary for this purpose.

Windguru Links to Hikes in this Itinerary:

• Torres del Paine-Base Torres
• El Chalten- Laguna de los Tres
• El Chalten- Laguna Torre

Gear for Patagonia

What you pack is going to depend on the weather conditions. I highly recommend trekking poles, waterproof hiking boots, and a rain jacket at a minimum. Layers of clothing will be your friend to deal with rapidly changing weather. Some days I would start with a puffy jacket and be down to a t-shirt at end of the day. I personally get really cold hands, so runners’ gloves were useful to deal with the wind.

If you don’t want to pack heavy, you can rent gear in Puerto Natales and El Chalten. Rental Natales in Puerto Natales has many options. I also saw trekking poles for rent from the Base Torres Visitors Centre. In El Chalten, the Camping Center is an option for gear rentals. Both Puerto Natales and El Chalten have grocery stores and camp supply stores well stocked with convenient camping and hiking foods.

Two Weeks in Patagonia Itinerary

This itinerary is an active vacation with multiple long hikes. Because of Patagonia’s unpredictable weather, I’ve included a couple of possible rest or weather days into Puerto Natales and El Chalten. You can start this itinerary in either Puerto Natales or El Calafate, depending on which airport is most convenient to fly into.

Day 1-5: Torres del Paine, Chile

Day 1: Arrive to Puerto Natales and Mylodon Cave

The flight between Santiago, Chile and Puerto Natales is absolutely stunning. I flew in the early morning and had a seat on the left side of the plane (I was in seat 26A). Even if you are usually an aisle person you’re going to want the window seat this time.

From the window, you will see dramatic views of the southern Andes. I was able to spot Mount Fitz Roy in Argentina as well as wide snowfields and glaciers. Closer to Puerto Natales, the pilot dipped the wings so we had amazing views of Torres del Paine. The flight views were a preview of all the main spots that this itinerary is going to visit over the next two weeks.

After landing, grab a shuttle bus into Puerto Natales. I took the bus to Sixt Rental Car to pick up my rental car. Because I started the morning on the plane, I grabbed coffee and brunch at Hablemos Coco Restaurant.

Mylodon Cave

Today is the perfect day to head to nearby Mylodon Cave for some hiking. It’s one of the closest points of interest near Puerto Natales so it’s perfect for the first day. The 30-minute drive also gives you sweeping views of the mountains.

The hiking at Mylodon Cave is quite easy but offers up nice views of the mountains. I only hiked as far as the second cave but the full route does extend further. It took me about 3 hours to do the loop to the second cave.

There are three caves, but the best is the main cave where the mylodon, an extinct giant sloth, was found. If you are short on time, this is the closest cave and can be visited in about an hour. In addition to megafauna, these caves also have evidence of ancient humans.

After, head back to Puerto Natales to explore the town. Last Hope Distillery is a good option for dinner to try local gin and bar food. If you make it back in time, you can also participate in a gin tasting, which happens most days at 5:30 PM.

Day 2: Hike Base Torres

Start your first full day in Patagonia with a hike to one of the most iconic views in South America, the Mirador las Torres. The hike is part of the famous W-Trek, but it’s also a popular day hike for those that don’t want to camp. It is about a 2-hour drive from Puerto Natales to the trailhead in Torres del Paine National Park.

Start your day as early as possible, as this out-and-back trail is 22 km with over 1000m of elevation gain. Depending on your hiking speed, it could take between 6-10 hours to do the entire trail. The last section of the trail closes at 3 pm, and you will be turned back if you do not reach it in time.

This is an extremely popular trail, but it is rated as a difficult hike. I personally saw multiple people crying on this trail, as well as one person throwing up from over-exertion.

Warnings out of the way, the Mirador las Torres hike was incredibly rewarding. I found that the views the entire way were absolutely stunning. The first section was covered in flowering red Chilean firetrees and had beautiful views of the mountains in front and impossibly coloured teal lakes when I looked behind me. At Windy Pass, you will have views of a winding river valley. You have a chance to purchase food, refill water, and use the paid toilets at Chileno Camp before going on to the most challenging part of the hike.

Once you reach the ranger station, there is one last bathroom before you do a ton of elevation gain. The part I found most challenging (as a fairly short person) was the section through the stream as I had to do high step-ups and on the descent, had to be almost sitting down to step down. Waterproof boots and hiking poles were very useful for me. After the stream is an exposed rocky section before you finally make it to the iconic Mirador Base Torres.

It feels like such a relief to be able to stop hiking and take in the views of the three granite mountains rising above the emerald green lake. After spending some time at the lake, it’s time for the return hike and then the drive back to your hotel in Puerto Natales. I got back to the town late, but Napoli Pizzeria was open and had delicious pasta and pizza.

Today was one of those perfect travel days that almost feel surreal that it’s real life. Perfect weather, gorgeous scenery, and finally getting to see Chilean Patagonia after dreaming about it for over a decade.

Day 3: Viewpoints in Torres del Paine

Today, drive towards Torres del Paine National Park to take in some of the viewpoints and short hikes. Start from the Sarmiento entrance. Make sure you stop at the Lake Sarmiento viewpoint for fantastic views of the lake and mountains. There are a couple small viewpoints, but the next main viewpoint is Mirador Nordenskjöld Lake.

Salto Grande

At Mirador Salto Grande, there is a small cafeteria and bathrooms. After, take in the viewpoint to see the waterfall. You also have the option to do the hike to Mirador Cuernos, which is about a 2-hour round-trip. From this viewpoint, you will have an uninterrupted view of the famous horns and Paine Grande mountains.

Hiking Mirador Condor

The next main stop is at Mirador Condor. From this parking lot, you also have a view of the bridge at Hosteria Pehoe. The hike is about 2 hours if you choose to go to the top. It has a nice view of Lake Pehoe and the mountains, and if you are lucky, condors circling the top. I loved the views from this hike and was able to spot some nice wildflowers on the way up.

Hotel Explora Boardwalks

The final big stop of the day are the boardwalks at Hotel Explora. You can do the full loop of the boardwalks including the waterfall behind the hotel, or just do a small walk up to see the view of the lake.

After a day of exploring Torres del Paine National Park, you can either return back the way you came or do a full loop exiting through the Serrano Gate. The drive through the Serrano Gate does take you down some pretty rough roads with potholes. You can stop at the viewpoint above Serrano Village as well as several viewpoints along the road on the way back to the hotel.

Day 4: Rest Day or More Torres del Paine

With Patagonia having such unpredictable weather, I built an extra day into my time in Chile. Use it to do anything you missed on the first two days or if you need a rest day after the long hike to Mirador las Torres. It would also be a great day to go horseback riding, kayaking, or rock climbing near Puerto Natales.

I ended up driving around Torres del Paine on this day. I had planned on hiking to Mirador Cuernos, but unfortunately, due to high winds, this hike as well as other hikes in this sector were completely closed off. I did not know until I arrived at the park that the hikes were closed, so I was only able to stop at viewpoints for photos.

Day 5: Transit to El Calafate and Laguna Nimez

Today, you will head to Argentina. Either drop off your rental car and get the bus or drive to El Calafate. I took the bus and recommend the morning bus so you have time in the afternoon in El Calafate. The journey took about 8 hours. Make sure you keep an eye out for rheas (AKA nandus) as I saw quite a few close to the road.

In El Calafate, you will need either Argentinian Pesos or US Dollars for the taxi as the bus station is a bit of a walk to the hotels. I had neither, so I had to drag my suitcase down the side of the road and across gravel as there were no sidewalks. I definitely do not recommend this option and I had obviously gotten too comfortable with paying everything by credit card.

I stayed at America Del Sur Calafate Hostel. I loved the location as it was convenient for getting to restaurants and the main sights of the town.

Laguna Nimez

After checking in to my hotel, I walked to Reserva Laguna Nimez for the bird sanctuary. It was also cash only but luckily accepted Euros (which I did have) as well as USD.

Laguna Nimez is the perfect place for a quick walk as the boardwalk takes you across a marsh. I saw many species of birds, but the highlight was the abundance of flamingoes. After enjoying the bird sanctuary, head to the main area of El Calafate to have some dinner. I had dinner at Buenos Cruces Pasta Bar, which I highly recommend as it was one of the best places I ate at in Patagonia.

Day 6-7: El Calafate, Argentina

Day 6: Perito Moreno Glacier

Book your bus tour to Perito Moreno Glacier at least 24 hours in advance, the company I went with required it. To visit Perito Moreno Glacier, you will also have to separately buy tickets to Los Glaciares National Park. I purchased in advance because I was also going to be using the same tickets for hiking in El Chalten. You can also purchase upon entry.

You have two options when visiting Perito Moreno Glacier. You can either book the boardwalks only or boat cruise and boardwalks ticket. Most people take the boat cruise option but it is significantly more expensive. I was quite happy with the boardwalks and felt like I had a good experience without the cruise. There is plenty of time to view the glacier from multiple viewpoints.

The Perito Moreno Glacier is beautiful. It’s incredible to think of how much the glacier has receded and compare it to old photographs. When I visited, I witnessed multiple glacier calving events, that were louder than I expected.

After spending time at Perito Moreno Glacier, the tour gave the option to get dropped off in the main town area instead of the hotel so it was quick to walk to dinner. I had dinner at Pura Vida, which is quite popular and I lucked out being able to get a table because I was early. I had the lentil potato pie, which was very filling and tasty.

Day 7: Transit to El Chalten and Condor Viewpoint

I stopped at Calafate Coffee Roasters to grab a coffee and a sandwich for the bus trip today. Then it was off to the bus station and bus to El Chalten. The trip is about 3 hours. Once in El Chalten, it’s easy to walk to any of the hotels in town.

I stayed at Solo Lofts and highly recommend it as it was my favourite place I stayed in Patagonia. The loft has everything you need for cooking simple meals, and views of the mountains and river from your balcony.

You should have enough time to do the short hike to Condor Viewpoint. A ticket for Los Glaciares National Park is required, but if you bought the 7-day entry starting yesterday at Perito Moreno Glacier, you will be covered for your time in El Chalten.

Condor Viewpoint is 1-2 hours to hike and is quite easy. It’s not to be missed because it has gorgeous views of the mountains and El Chalten. Condors fly close to these cliffs so you can easily view them circling in the sky.

Get ready for a long day of hiking by picking up food supplies or sandwiches from town. I purchased all of my sandwiches from Simple (vegan and vegetarian options) and highly recommend them, but there are many options in town. For dinner, head to Laborum for some seriously standout pizza.

Day 8-12: El Chaltén, Argentina

Day 8: Hike Laguna de los Tres

Laguna de los Tres is not to be missed while you are in El Chalten. It ended up being my favourite hike I did in Patagonia and has phenomenal scenery the whole way. The start of this hike at the Sendero al Fitz Roy trailhead is easily reached on foot from town. This difficult hike is 22.5 km and will take 8-10 hours with 1054m of elevation change.

The beginning of the trail has some moderate elevation gain but is quite easy. I recommend the route that goes by Laguna Capri as you will get views of the lake with reflections of Mount Fitz Roy. After, you will come across serene meadows and streams with views of the mountains and glacier Piedras Blancas. You can safely refill your water in the Rio Blanco River after Poincenot Camp.

After Poincenot Camp, you will have the bulk of the elevation gain. You will gain 400m in one kilometre. I highly recommend hiking poles for this and checking the weather in advance as you will be completely exposed to the wind.

At Laguna de los Tres, you will have amazing views of the iconic Mount Fitz Roy and the teal blue water. I visited in November and the lake was still frozen from winter. It was still special to see this famous mountain up close.

The lower elevation Laguna Suica, right next to it was worth viewing as it had thawed and is a beautiful deep teal.

As this is an out-and-back trail, after spending time at Laguna de los Tres, it’s time to walk the 10 km back to El Chalten. I walked the route that goes via Mirador Fitz Roy on the way back, and do not recommend it as it was overgrown and poorly marked in some areas.

In El Chalten, I recommend Lo de Daro Bodegon, I ate here a couple of times because they have yummy Argentinian meals.

Day 9: Rest Day Around El Chalten

After a long hike with a lot of elevation change, today is a good day for a rest day. If you don’t need it, move up the Laguna Torre or Chorillo del Salto hikes and consider adding on Loma del Pliegue Tumbado at the end of your time in El Chalten.

I personally needed a rest day in El Chalten because I had a terrible cold and spent the day hydrating and resting so I was well enough for the rest of my vacation.

El Chalten is a charming town to wander around in and do some souvenir shopping. It’s the perfect day to try some coffee shops and alfajores. Simple Cafe, Meme’s Cakes, La Waflería, Chalteños, and Paisa High Mountain Coffee are all worth checking out.

Alfajores are a cookie sandwich with dulce de leche in between, although there are variations including Calafate Berry jam. There’s an alfajor for everyone, and I found it quite easy to find different fillings and even vegan versions of the treat.

Another Argentinian specialty is el submarino, hot chocolate. It’s called this because you drop a stick of chocolate (the submarine) into milk.

Day 10: Hike Laguna Torre

Even though Laguna Torre is an 18 km hike, it’s relatively flat, so it should feel quite a bit easier compared to Base Torres or Laguna de los Tres. It is still rated as a difficult hike because of the distance and 576 m of elevation gain. This hike has a couple of possible starting points. I recommend the trailhead from Los Charitos street as it is the most efficient route.

The trail starts out with some elevation gain as you walk towards the Mirador Cascada Margarita and Mirador Cerro Torre. There are fantastic views from both viewpoints but at Mirador Cerro Torre you will get your first view of the glacier and mountains. There is also a nice resting spot here and bathrooms.

After, the walk flattens out and you get nice views of the river and mountains. I found it to be a very peaceful walk as part of it goes through serene forest, meadows, and next to the river. The river is quite turbulent so while it probably is safe to drink, it is full of sediment. There is a small creek you will cross that has clear water and it is safe to refill your water bottle from.

The hike ends with a gradual uphill to Laguna Torre. The water here doesn’t have the spectacular teal colouring but the glaciers and mountains are worth it. After, retrace the 9 km back to El Chalten.

Day 11: Hike to Chorrillo del Salto

Today is a bit of an easier day and I built it into the itinerary as an sort of an active rest day or bad weather day.

Head to the same trailhead as for the Laguna de los Tres, Sendero al Fitz Roy. Here you will find the trail for Chorrillo del Salto to see the nearby waterfall. If you do not want to pay the entry for the park, you can walk on the roadside instead. I walked one way on the road and one way on the trail and the roadside is extremely dusty and unenjoyable.

The Chorrillo del Salto trail is quite lovely and only 6.6 km, so you can do this hike in about 2 hours. The trail is parallel to the road, and you cross the road a couple of times. The highlight of the walk for me was the view over the braided river. It was also nice to be in the lenga forests. The final destination is the Chorrillo del Salto waterfall, which is beautiful and a great spot for a packed lunch.

After having a relaxing walk, head back to El Chalten for your final dinner in Patagonia. I stopped at La Wafleria for some pre-dinner waffles and hot chocolate.

Day 12: Transit to El Calafate Airport

Today is a transit day so check out and head to the bus terminal. I was able to get a flight from El Calafate to Santiago, Chile so my bus journey was only to the El Calafate airport, which most bus routes include. If you need to head back to Puerto Natales for your flight, it’s 9-11 hours and you will likely need to spend the night in Puerto Natales.

It’s a 3.5 hour journey from El Chalten to the El Calafate Airport and I recommend giving yourself a bit of extra time in case of delays or the bus breaking down. My bus broke down, which caused about a 30 minute delay. The bus company had another bus pick us up and prioritized passengers going to the airport.

Patagonia as a First-Time Visitor

Patagonia was an incredibly rewarding area to visit. Both Chilean and Argentine Patagonia felt incredibly safe to navigate by car and bus. I ended up with generally fantastic weather but was glad to have extra days in my itinerary. Nothing was rushed, and I had time to optimize the best hiking weather. Patagonia left me feeling completely relaxed. It’s the perfect destination to get a break from the Northern winter and soak up some sun.